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SS12 WOMEN: SPY NEXT

Recut from Vintage Indochinese Indigo

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The new Spy Next D.G.L. for women is a highly limited-edition biker jacket crafted from both vintage and contemporary Indochinese narrow-loom fabric combined with full-grain black leather, indigo linen and indigo ribbed stretch panels.  Like other ReCut D.G.L. designs in past collections, this has been an absolute labor-of-love on the part of both the design and development team as well as our manufacturer and suppliers.

Spy Next DGL Double Fit

Having identified Indochina as a source of design inspiration for the Spring 2012 collection the team packed their bags and headed to Bangkok for a few days.  On the agenda was a comprehensive sweep of the workwear and military stalls in the famous Weekend Market.

Spy Next Research

But the really palpable excitement was related to their plans to meet with specialized traders who were scheduled to show them both antique and contemporary Hill Tribe textiles.  The crew spent time with four separate dealers learning more about the fabric traditions of the region and slowly acquiring enough fabric (some in the form of antique skirts and jackets) to use to assemble the new Spy Next D.G.L. biker jacket.

Designers, developers and pattern-makers sat together with the technical team at the production facility reviewing the exact  anatomy of the design and determining how to make the most balanced use each individual textile specimen slated within each of the finished jackets.  The design was broken down into fabric-zones and assigned codes which corresponded to the exact quantity of antique tribal textiles that they had acquired for the project.  Each fabric "type" was sorted and bundled on the spot to ensure a smooth construction process.

Spy Next DGL WIP1

The finished jackets proudly advances the tradition of previous Denham ReCut/D.G.L. projects that have included the use use of parachute-silk from WW2, antique French bed-linens, 100 year old Japanese "Boro" textiles as well as Dutch army ponchos and blankets.

Spy Next DGL Flat