Home (all) Welcome to DENHAM the Jeanmaker´s website. Each card reveals a story which represents one facet of Denham´s vision. Categorised by the collection, garment library, studio & stores, to press reports & the birth of the Cutter´s Council. Designed in time with no beginning nor end, through resourceful innovation and fearless experimentation. It´s a decorated blog. A tailor-made homepage. We hope to fascinate but are equally prepared to frustrate.
FRESH FOR SHORE LEAVE Untreated chambray gives the Subterfuge a clean fresh attitude with the sort of neat dignity associated with a new navy recruit’s first day of shore-leave or maybe a prison inmate on visitor’s day.
SELVEDGE CHAMBRAY Like the Grit, the Subterfuge is also a selvedge chambray model utilizing the natural selvedge border to finish the internal placket fold (over the button backs), locker-loop, cuff and waist gussets.
POCKET PROGRESSION The most distinct feature of the Subterfuge is the use of a new pocket design. Chambray military and workshirts have a great tradition of innovative pockets; standard, cargo, flap, cigarette, tool and pencil to name a few.
The Subterfuge moves this tradition a little further down the road. Overlapping angled flaps tether together to fully secure the contents, but also allow direct access for pencils and tire-pressure gauges and the like.
THE TRUTH IS IN THE DETAILS
Selvege Inner Placket
The backside of the full ring-and-eye button closure protected with the natural selvedge fold over.
SELVEDGE CHAMBRAY Selvedge is the "self-edge" running the length of the long edges of the bolt of material marking the point where the shuttle returns each time after running the filling "weft" yarn between the warp yarns... in other words, after each weave. In the days when it was even more critical to maximize the use of the whole cloth, the selvedge's trademark striped edge patterns would be hidden discreetly in the construction in an effort to avoid wasting fabric.
KEEPING TABS That's how we describe this bias taped feature constructed in self-fabric that serves a bunch of thankless little functions on each garment. On the SUBTERFUGE they're used to secure the back collar keeping it in place at all times, and allowing the shirt to be hung locker-room style when in storage.... Showing a little selvedge at the same time.
CABLE CONNECTION An entirely new system was created to replace standard sliced-and-reparied button-holes. In this case we created a clean finish edges, overlapped them and ran a coninous dynamic cord across the gap they create. The cord crosses the resulting notch to create the cleanest button hole we've ever seen. If you've never seen a construction quite like this, well niether had we until we prototyped it here.
RING & EYE BUTTONS Button attachements were upgraded enhancing historic military split-ring or cotter-pin "stitchless" button systems by casting solid ring-back buttons and securing them between double sided stainless grommets reinforced with fullgrain leather saddles like we use on our jeans' rivets. You see the photos, now close your eyes and imagine one falling off. Ever.
