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AW12 MEN: ORKNEY DGL

Recut from Vintage Linen & Navy Blankets

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OrkneyRecutHeader 2

Styles from the new Winter 2012 collection are starting to come in and they include designs that mark our 10th exploration of limited-edition D.G.L. Re-Cut concepts. One of those is the Orkney DGL.  Made from vintage French linen slipcovers combined with deadstock Italian Navy blankets from the 1960's rendered in a completely new men's outerwear model; the Orkney.

Orkeny DGL Flat

We discovered the archive fabrics at the stall of our friends at the War & Peace show. The dealer in question charmed us with her personality first, and then did us the favor or allowing us to preview her secret stash of history-rich vintage materials.  We settled on rugged natural linens from France and thick blanketing from the Italian Navy.

Orkeny DGL Process

Because we're daily inspired by the processes of denimcraft and because we hoped to harmonize these fabrics within one garment concept, we settled on a hand dip dyed technique as the main color inspiration.  Linen parts were laid down individually in indigo baths and then pulled out, wrung by hand and dried flat to create a one-of-a-kind optic loaded with rich highs and low textures.

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The Orkney's design takes cues from several iconic utility winter coats from our archives, but a practical debt is owed to a Swedish Army Winter Coat. We managed to locate two examples; one at the Rose Bowl in in California and the other from a Dutch/Greek dealer also showing at War & Peace.  This doubling-up of archives gave us the courage to cut into one of the vintage pieces in order to understand its design well enough to try and evolve it… -subjecting to our own creative ethos and own commitment to stylistic progression.

Orkney DGL Research 1