Home (all) Welcome to DENHAM the Jeanmaker´s website. Each card reveals a story which represents one facet of Denham´s vision. Categorised by the collection, garment library, studio & stores, to press reports & the birth of the Cutter´s Council. Designed in time with no beginning nor end, through resourceful innovation and fearless experimentation. It´s a decorated blog. A tailor-made homepage. We hope to fascinate but are equally prepared to frustrate.
FROM THE DOCKLANDS TO THE GUNS OF NAVARONE
The AW10 collection owes its overriding attitude to the no bullshit approach to layering and garment-combinations manifested by dockworkers from back in the day up-to-today. One staple of the docks was introduced in DENHAM's first fall collection last year. The Seadog peacoat.
For the new AW10 LONGSHORE peacoat key conventions of traditional design were drastically modified (conventions destroyed) with the most notable element being the grafting of pre-curved sleeves fully equipped with Talon zipper cuffs and a right arm cable-connection key-pocket. The architecture of the sleeves pays some homage to sport-touring motorcycle jackets from the Denham Garment Library.
This black rubberized version was also re-imagined in a limited edition ReCut variation using Dutch Army Ponchos.
MEASURE NEVER, KEEP CUTTING
We don't make the final product by carving up old clothes, but cutting into vintage pieces and physically grafting them together in order to test design concepts is an important part of how things get done around the studio. Rest assured we only take scissors to vintage if we're convinced the idea is worth refining and we never sacrifice rare specimens.
For intsance, we'd think twice before running a blade across an example like this one from the US Navy in 1967.
Double Reverse-Side Riveted Tape-Through Buttons
INSPIRED BY THE DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY
A: The motorcycle sleeve architecture of the LONGSHORE borrowed lines from a range of vintage motorsport jackets we've been collecting over the years. We went with a gentle forward curve as well classic bike jacket detailing but we had visions of 70's track races from On Any Sunday as we cut stuff apart and rebuilt our own hybrid coat.
B: We've got a bunch of peacoats in the Denham Garment Library. We recently acquired a beautiful 8-button style from WW2 but we've also got new versions including the current USN variation. To convince yourself that a peacoat can carry its share of smackdown style without loosing its dignity you only have to re-watch Gregory Peck in The Guns of Navarone or Robert Redford in Three Days of the Condor.
The LONGSHORE combines rugged rubberized canvas for the outer body fabric with a rich wool blend facings (a dose of nylon in the Melton keeps the performance up). Backing this cocktail or rubber, canvas and wool is a full torso lining of reverse-side Japanese denim which features a button set to accept the AW10 LINER as extra insulation as well as a generously proportioned snap closure interior document pocket.
FEATURES
Combination of rubberized cotton exterior with melton-blend collars and lapelReverse-side Japanese denim body-lining and herringbone calico sleeve lining
The Longshore accepts the Liner as a button-in modular insulator
New reverse-riveted tape-through double riveted buttons
Talon cuff-zippers
Cable Connection upper closure and ignition-key forearm pocket
Blind Boxed Button-Holes
Removable Throat Flap
