AW10 MEN: DUTY

To join the long cue of labels adding their own spin to the legendary M65 military field jacket we wanted to make sure we had something genuine to contribute.  But like those other brands, our feelings about the M65 are genuine and they go back to when we were teenagers (or the first time we saw Taxi Driver).  So we've had plenty of time to reflect on how to push the concept forward prior to releasing the AW10 DUTY.

We worked on two variations. Version A: Tape-Seamed Waterproof-Breathable Shell and Version B: Fully Lined Melton Wool.

WATERPROOF BREATHABLE:

For the waterproof version we laminated a technical milkfoam backing against a rich men’s suiting-style herringbone twill (a nod to the fishbone pocketing in our jeans with a little more sartorial luster.... even a bit chic).  The backside of the assembly is fully seam-sealed and the protection is rated for 5M of water pressure.  For the tech-heads that means that a tube five meters tall full of water wouldn't represent enough pressure to penetrate the fabric. That's five-times the requirement for a "waterproof" rating. It’s only about half the rating used by high altitude climbers but we're after practical function in the utility-workwear tradition and its more than enough to get you through

As with authentic M65 jackets, the DUTY is equipped with a full internal button-set allowing the new Denham LINER jacket to be secured inside acting as an integrated insulator.

We love to talk about how we Worship Tradition and Destroy Convention.  We want our designs to carry a clear sense of the history built-in to each style but we want to make push things forward at the same time.  We're not doing tradition much good if we just leave it where we found it.

Sometimes researching tradition via picking through vintage can produce some surprising ideas. Like the traditional American trucker/biker wallet that gave us a clue as to how we could increase the pocketing without screwing up the lines of the jacket.  The result is a double-flapped piggyback pocket design that converts 2 storage points into 4.  Added to the hand-stuffer pockets and the long Talon zippered document pocket, which allowed us to build 7 easy access pockets into the design while keeping the outlook clean and modern.  -A trick that came in particularly hand on the waterproof-breathable shell version that has no interior pockets.

FEATURES

The Duty’s waterproof/breathable black herringbone exterior with “milk-foam” backing is 5x more waterproof than required to receive a “waterproof” rating

Full interior seam-taping protects against leaking in a downpour and increase wind protection

Of all the AW10 Denham outerwear pieces, the Duty ideally accepts the Liner as a button-in modular insulator

Rugged Talon full front zip protected further Cable-Connection placket closure

Stowaway tape-seam 3-part hood stores behind Talon zipper on the collar

Overlapping/over-flapping stacked breast pockets with tapered sidewalls double the styles storage points

The same garment architecture is offered in a much burlier variation in the DUTY WOOL style featuring embroidered ring-and-eye buttons and panel-printed herringbone lining.

 

The second iteration of the DUTY is crafted from thick Melton wool.  This version is fully lined like a classic winter jacket, but also features buttons to receive the LINER (incase it's really really really cold out). Like the shell version, the DUTY WOOL has Cable Connection closures over the wind flap, genuine Talon zipper hardware throughout and unlike the shell version it also boasts solid Ring-and-Eye buttons.