Home (all) Welcome to DENHAM the Jeanmaker´s website. Each card reveals a story which represents one facet of Denham´s vision. Categorised by the collection, garment library, studio & stores, to press reports & the birth of the Cutter´s Council. Designed in time with no beginning nor end, through resourceful innovation and fearless experimentation. It´s a decorated blog. A tailor-made homepage. We hope to fascinate but are equally prepared to frustrate.
The AW10 Medic Union offers yet another twist on the original "Medic" sport-coat from a year ago. Like the first one, this season's variation is based on a wool medical officer's POW coat from WW2. But other influences collide in the "Union" edition. The most important new inspiration came from a classic British Donkey Jacket. But the construction's side seams were re-articulated to create a contemporary fit without spoiling the frank simplicity of its gruff workwear origins.
There is debate about why these wool and vinyl laborer's coats were called Donkey. Some say it's because the guys that wore them were consigned to lowly work. -Donkey work. Others say that shipboard mechanics running tug boats in the harbor relied on the power of their Donkey Engines to navigate their various duties.
The vynl shoulder yoke protected a bit from rain, but also helped make the garment last when the wearer's shoulders were used for moving stacks of wet lumber around. Damp wood could rest on a dockworker's shoulder without soaking into he wool.
We have two vintage examples in the Denham Garment Library. Our favorite features a bright orange vinyl yoke. Its woven interior label aslp provides the manufacturer's telephone number for customer-service. We guess back in the 1950's it would have been a local call.
Like the Spring 2010 version, the Medic Intel, the new Medic Union also boasts a bi-swing action back construction to allow for more natural arm movement. The bi-swing shoulders are more typically seen on motorcycle jackets, air-force bombers or field coats.
Other finesses include a shirt-tail lower profile giving the design a ever-so-slightly wool CPO shirt attitude and contoured cuffs that extend over the back of the hand.
Dandified
