Home (all) Welcome to DENHAM the Jeanmaker´s website. Each card reveals a story which represents one facet of Denham´s vision. Categorised by the collection, garment library, studio & stores, to press reports & the birth of the Cutter´s Council. Designed in time with no beginning nor end, through resourceful innovation and fearless experimentation. It´s a decorated blog. A tailor-made homepage. We hope to fascinate but are equally prepared to frustrate.
The Foreign Office, the S.O.E., the S.I.S., M15 and M16... It's a short trip from Ian Fleming's real-life adventures to those of Lawrence of Arabia and from there it's a short trip to the ubiquitous crumpled khaki trench coat. As is our habit, we sought to worship that tradition while destroying a few conventions along the way.
WORSHIP TRADITION We were forging ahead with development of our Commission Trench when Free & Easy Japan ran their retrospective on the history of the category. For those that don't know, the magazine is the bible for designers and zealous aficionados and rotates its scrutiny around the various histories of iconic menswear garments from workwear, military and outdoor categories. Consider them the curators of the ultimate GARMENT LIBRARY. It was gratifying to know we weren't alone obsessing about building the perfect modern model. And, as always, we learned plenty from the photos, illustrations and diagrams despite not reading Japanese.
Nobody like the people at Free & Easy to inspire designers to "worship tradition" and we certainly do. But we're not satisfied to leave it there. Honestly we doubt the minds and hands from history that came up with the models we all now regard as "iconic" were satisfied to sit still either. So let the destruction of conventions commence. Starting with a classic stand/fall khaki trench chassis our approach included:
SWISS SCHOELLER MEMORY WATERPROOF/BREATHABLE FABRIC A Swiss fabric mill known for their work in peformance fabrics for motorcyle racing and wintersports, Schoeller used metal in the outer weave and their own waterproof/breathable membrane as a hidden laminate. The finished jacket is light as a lunchbag and begs to be scrunched and stuffed in your satchel (or the balled-up and hucked up into the overhead compartment if you fly coach).
CABLE CONNECTION An entirely new system was created to replace standard sliced-and-reparied button-holes. In this case we created a clean finish edge with angular notches and ran a coninous dynamic cord through the entire placket. The cord crosses the notches to create the cleanest button holes we've ever seen and they're real likely to stay that way. If you've never seen a construction quite like this, well niether had we until we prototyped it here.
RING & EYE BUTTONS Button attachements were upgraded enhancing historic military split-ring or cotter-pin "stitchless" button systems by casting solid ring-back buttons and securing them between double sided stainless grommets reinforced with fullgrain leather saddles like we use on our jeans' rivets. You see the photos, now close your eyes and imagine one falling off. Ever.
A TRADITION OF DURABILITY Not there was anything lacking in the original assemblies. We've learned how to do it from military and workwear specimens in our DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY. We just wanted to push things a little further, creating something cleaner and even more durable.
DEEEEEEEP POCKETS Two button-closing interior breast pockets were both specifcied to easily accept travel documents lik tri-folded 8.5 x 11 or A4 travel itineraries, tickets and passports. That eliminates a couple of reasons to lug around a carry-bag.
TALON Both hand-stuffer outer pockets are secured with mini Talon Zippers. The Talon name has assured long wearing functionality since 1893. Tank drivers and test pilots have relied on it and the Talon name adorns hundreds of the best secimens in our Denham Garment Library archive. So don't sweat it when you need to throw your coat loose in one of those bins on the x-ray belt at the airport.... -your wallet, phone and loose change will be safe. Same goes for those times you drape it over a seat next to you at the diner instead of using the coat rack by the entrance.
KICK-PLEAT GLOVE POCKETS
MORE HIDDEN INSPIRATION FROM THE DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY We discovered one of the many surprising details developed by designers whose names have been lost to history on a Dutch Mens's Walking or Carriage Coat. We obtained the piece at the Noordmarkt nearby our studio because we like the texture and shape.
But closer inspection revealed an odd detail. Both of the coat's tails contained hidden pockets in the lining. Following-up this clue we learned this was likely to allow the wearer to stuff his gloves away when he hung his coat on a peg... -like maybe when he stopped in at the neiborhood bar. Anyway, a hundred years later we still hang our coats on pegs in public places and it seemed like an idea worth reviviing.
So we adapted the idea on the Commission. Within the lining on both sides of the coat's kick-pleat are two deep taffeta-lined pockets. Perfect for stowing away your gloves, or bike-keys, or a tram-ticket, or a box of emergency breath-mints.
Secret Agent Man
by Brit Savage & Twang Deluxe
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