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AW11 MEN: STANDARD

Early European Standby through a Modern Lens

AW11 Standard Masthead2

For the new Standard jacket we had our hearts set on bringing back the one-time ubiquitous staple of workwear fabrication, namely thick cotton sateen.  Sateen fabrics feature more visible weft yarns on the exterior surface (weft yarns span over multiple warp yarns before returning through the weave).  It has this in common with satin fabrics but in the case of this rugged workwear grade the result is a smooth-but-not-slick natural material with a slight sponginess and lots of burly comfort.

Like the moleskin we employed to make the new Medic sportcoat, workwear stateen can often be seen in vintage European utility garments -particularly French, German, Austrian and British.  Gratitude again to Irving Penn and his Small Trades portaits for capturing this era (buy the book here) . We also have lots of examples of hard-worn sateen jackets and trousers in our reference library and these give an impression of how this 100% cotton fabric would wear over extended use.

AW11 Standard Flat