SS10 MEN: OPERATIVE

Part James Dean - Part Rat Patrol

Operative Masthead Trial 2

The OPERATIVE is based on a simple idea of marrying a James Dean Rebel Without a Cause mechanic or ricky-jacket with the functional yoke constructions we've seen on "Sahariana" military and safari jackets in our DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY archve.

DLG Operative

WORSHIP TRADITION Above is an image of one of the jackets in our archive featuring this utility-tailoring "trick" of making the shoulder-yokes double as pocket flaps. We did the same thing but only on one side and we used the Cable Connection and Ring & Eye elements here.

Operative Crush

CRUSHABLE MILITARY GABERDINE The shell fabric is 100% cotton gaberdine that is somewhere between a lighter jacket and a heavier shirt weight.  But the important thing is that it throws on easily.

Bedford Lining

BEDFORD LINING To ensure the jacket works for the season it's lined in bedford cotton.  The naturally occuring cords in the bedford weave act to channel air away from your body, sorta like pique knit does for classic tennis shirts.  Think of it as a corduroy without the "roy". No fuzz to create heat, just airstreams to keep you cool.

Operative Series 2

Button Change

JUST DANDY For no real reason except that the Ring & Eye Button system allows for easy removal we've inlcuded a second button for the yoke-flap over the chest pocket.  So, you can swith it up with a more flash color if you're so inclined.

Operative Button

RING & EYE BUTTONS Button attachements were upgraded enhancing historic military split-ring or cotter-pin "stitchless" button systems by casting solid ring-back buttons and securing them between double sided stainless grommets reinforced with fullgrain leather saddles like we use on our jeans' rivets. You see the photos, now close your eyes and imagine one falling off.  Ever.

Operative Cable

CABLE CONNECTION  An entirely new system was created to replace standard sliced-and-reparied button-holes.  In this case we created a clean finish edge with angular notches and ran a coninous dynamic cord through the entire placket.  The cord crosses the notches to create the cleanest button holes we've ever seen and they're real likely to stay that way.  If you've never seen a construction quite like this, well niether had we until we prototyped it here.